Everest Expedition

Conquering the Roof of the World

The Most Dangerous Section of Everest

The Khumbu Icefall is notorious as one of the most perilous stages of the Mount Everest ascent. Located just above Base Camp, it is a constantly shifting river of ice, full of towering seracs and deep crevasses. The icefall moves several feet a day, meaning the route can change overnight.

The Role of the Icefall Doctors

A specialized team of Sherpas, known as the Icefall Doctors, brave this section first every season. They set the route, placing ladders across wider crevasses and securing ropes for the climbers who follow. Their incredibly brave work makes the ascent possible for everyone else.

Timing is Everything

Climbers usually navigate the Icefall in the very early hours of the morning, often starting before 3:00 AM. At this time, the temperatures are lowest, and the ice is frozen solid, making it more stable. As the sun rises and warms the glacier, the risk of ice and snow collapsing increases significantly.